Friday, 22 December 2017

Would you like to work in Hong Kong?

Meekatharra.

Many uncomplimentary things have been said about the Western Australian town of Meekatharra all I can say they were most likely true.
One fellow said the best feature about Meekatharra is, it appears in the rear view mirror often.

I worked near Meekathrra, in two open cut mines, 17km south.
When I started the mine was called Endeavor, before that it was known as Bluebird, then a drilling program discovered where the actual ore body was located and it became St Barbara Mine.

I started as an excavator operator, simply because I wanted a job, three months later I moved on to being a shift boss.
The Mine owner was a bloody difficult son of a bitch on his good days, on his bad you approached him with a whip and a chair.
Meekatharra is hot. on its good days, the rest is just bloody hot, during winter its bloody cold.
The wife of one of Australia's prim ministers commented as she stepped from the aircraft on a ministerial visit it looks like the end of the earth, she was close, it's not, but you can see it from there.

Ross the Boss, a self made mine owner brought the barely viable Blue Bird mine because it was cheap from a company called Bell Resources, Allen Bond the owner ended up in jail for various fraud related reasons despite winning the 12mtr America Cup after the rich snobby Yanks boasted ownership of it for 140 years, mainly though cheating, rule changes, and being generally rich sneaky shits.
Mr Bond simply out sneaky shitted the Yankey sneaky shits when he fitted a winged keel to his yacht, it didn't make the yacht go any faster but helped when tacking, so forcing the Yanks into a tacking race he comfortable beat them.

One Christmas Ross the boss approached me in the bar and asked me why I seemed to one of the few on site not afraid of him. I informed Ross there were only two things he could do to me. one was to hire me, which he had done, the other was to fire me which as I said, was a work in progress.
St Barbars mine for Ross was pay dirt, after owning a small struggling trucking company the drilling program he reluctantly agreed to had after four months of exploratory drilling failed to fine the actual limit of the ore body. Good drilling results was like money in the bank and investors were eager to hop on board, allowing Ross to build a new processing plant additional crushers larger trucks...then much larger trucks.

Ross loved helicopters, he owned and flew his own private Bell Jet Ranger he kept in a shed in his back yard and used the aircraft to fly himself to Perth, a ten hour drive by car. 

The Deadman's Curve


Bell-Jetranger-206
.

One habit he had when returning to site was to drop down low and perform what is commonly referred to as ‘worm burning’ where he would attempt to approach the mine unseen then pop up and suddenly appear over head checking all was as it should be in his large open cut mine. He had an eagle eye and any task or machine not engaged in productive mining would receive a please explain with in minutes of landing.
Late one very hot summers afternoon with the temperatures well up in the mid forties and hardly any breeze to talk of, I was on top of one of the waste dumps when I heard the unmistakable faint whap, whap, of a chopper somewhere way off in the distance, I scanned the horizon and caught a flash off the approaching aircraft flying just below the late afternoon sun at tree top level.
Here comes the hun in the sun I thought looking down on it from my elevated position.
At less than half a kilometer from my position the chopper pulled up flying noisily over the top of the dump with just a few meters to spare then continued on to fly over the large open pit to surprise everyone with his sudden unannounced appearance.
I watched as the helicopter rapidly lost speed as it banked right to begin a circle about one hundred feet above the rim of the pit. With the loss of forward speed and the super hot thin air the chopper began a gentle descent as it turned.
I heard the engine speed increase as the pilot attempted to gain more lift from the taxed rotor, the low altitude combined with the right turn now committed the pilot to completing the maneuver taking both him and his sinking machine below the rim of the pit. “SHIT”!! I thought as I raced to the edge of the dump to watch the helicopter slipping lower and lower into the deep pit.

The nose of the chopper lowered in an effort to gain the much needed speed, the pilot I knew was rapidly running out of options.
“Oh Shit he’s bought the farm this time, caught under the dead man’s curve” I thought knowing its a position a pilot finds himself in when he had nothing on the clock no ideas and no where to go.
The screaming chopper slowly continued descending deeper into the pit flying close to the wall still in a gentle right turn following the curvature of the pit wall. “Shit, shit, s h e e e it.” I thought unable to help while knowing full well his predicament.
Near the floor of the pit some 200 ft below ground level I watched and the chopper began to gain a little much needed forward speed, which was countered by the need to increase the turn rate of the aircraft in the confined space, the dust in the wake from the rotor was drawing air down the side of the pit creating a downward flow, something that was not going to help should he attempt a second lap of the pit.
Imperceptibly the forward speed crept up as the helicopter completed its first lap. More air and dust was being dragged into the pit as the helicopter continued round and round inching its way slowly upward. The pit rapidly filling with blinding choking dust, I picked up the radio and asked for all equipment to stop moving and park up where they were.
Around and around, two, three, four times it went gradually inching faster and faster the helicopter went, filling the pit with even more choking, blinding dust till it finally rose enough to clear the rim where it straightened up and head off across the flat climbing as it went. I watched as it finally turned and headed off in the direction of home.
The radio filled with whoops and calls as the workers commented on the amazing skill of the pilot and his ability to stir up both the dust and the work force.
Being an aviator I knew skill had played a very minor part in producing the successful outcome.
For the next three weeks the pilot avoided showing his face in the wet mess.
Finally seeing him in the bar one night he watched as I approached.
Before I could say a word he looked at me and said, “Your probably the only one on site who knew what was really going on, now don’t you say a bloody word, I feel bad enough as it is”, he said opening the conversation.
“Not many people make it back from behind the curve to talk about it”, I said.
“No one makes it back” He replied going quiet for a moment then added, “No one”.

I was asked to show a gentleman round who was visiting from Hong Kong, Joe Beer was in search of several forty tonne dump trucks for quarrying operations in Hong Kong.
St Barbara Mine had recently up sized the fleet and had a number of CAT 769 trucks parked up and available for sale.
During the inspection of these trucks Joe asked if I would be interested in working in Hong Kong, like any job offer you always say yes until you see the details.
Joe offered to send me an airline ticket and a week all expenses paid visit to Hong Kong.
Yeh, yeh, yeh. heard it all before I thought to myself.

About ten days later a ticket arrived and an invitation to spend a week over Christmas touring various company owned quarries in Hong Kong.

The Hong Kong trip was quickly followed by my resignation and departure from Meekatharra.


      

Thursday, 21 December 2017

En Oo the fook ar Uoo

En Ooo the fook ay yoo?





The Hong Kong Chinese in 1993 were very different to their country cousins over the boarder in mainland China.
HK Chinese enjoyed the trappings of a modern western life style and freedom to travel.

In 1994 just across the border the PRC were gathering and waiting for the govenor Chris Patten and the British Government to finally hand Hong Kong back ending 150 years of British occupation of Hong Kong and the surrounding 235 islands they occupied since the 1842 first opium war.

Lo Wu Border from the Hong Hong side.
Managing two Quarries for a time, I crossed the China / Hong Kong border sometimes 8 times a week and soon developed a nodding friendship with many of the PRC border guards who after the first few weeks of stamping my passport turning my officially stamped PRC work permit in to a large red blob stopped bothering to open or even look at my presented passport and took to simply waving me through the border with a bored nod.
 I began buying cartons of 500 cigarettes as I passed through the no mans land duty free shop between the Hong Kong / Chinese border, these I often left on the counter as I passed through.

During Chinese holidays the border became so crowded the boarder ques often stretched back a kilometer or more easily adding hours to the journey.
Patrolling guards often pull me from the que to escort me past the crowd and through immigration and the border knowing they would more than likely gain a packet or two of cigarettes for their trouble.

I was waiting in a very long Que one day when a scuffle broke out a little way ahead, several PRC border guards quickly moved in.
I was some way back and paid little attention to the problem, until two PRC guards I recognized approached me and after a moment hesitation smiled as they pulled me from the line, showing a little more determination than usual in their task as they formally escorted me toward the disturbance.
I came upon a PRC captain having an animated discussion with two Chinese businessmen in suits obviously returning from Hong Kong.
Standing off to one side with three slightly uncomfortable looking PRC guards was an very agitated sightly built young woman in her mid twenties with a long bush of bright red hair and freckles clutching a knapsack to her chest.
Upon recognizing me as I approached the captain stopped his conversation, turned to me.
I understood in my limited Chinese there was a problem with the red head woman, he shook my hand then escorted me over to her, he smiled before re returning to the two business men.
I introduced myself to the red head then asked her what had happened.
 
She looked at me with some suspicion for a moment, her voice still containing a trace of venom as she asked in a very broad Scottish accent, “En oo the foock ar yoo”?

I presented her with my business card as I informed her I knew the captain and guards and they had asked me to help.
She began explaining the two business men behind her had grabbed her by the hair then tried to rob her.
I looked over at the two men in suits, both in their forties their conversation with the captain was in Chinese standard (Mandarin) not the local Cantonese leaving me thinking they were more than likely from the mainland and not HK.
By now a more  PRC guards were gathering about us in a loose circle.

“I'm here to help", I went on, "you said they pulled your hair”? I asked, adding “Did they try to grab your bag”?
“Noo, ey ad a goot hold on it” she went on, I noticed the red flushed colour in her face was faiding and returning her to a much paler complexion which also  began highlighting her numerous freckles.

The guards standing about were talking among them selves, I was also catching parts of their conversation in Chinese.
“Should I point my gun at her”? One new arrival asked.
“Not without the captains permission” his mate said.

“Why ar yoo here”? she asked.
“To help” I replied noticing the Captain and the two business men were now approaching us.
“????!!?? only hair”,one of the businessmen explained as he drew near, I couldn't understand the first part of his conversation.

The red head moved behind me, wary of the approaching businessmen as well as being surrounded by armed Chinese guards in uniforms.

“No one here will hurt you” I explained hoping the captain understood.
“Does he know her”? One of the guards asked another.
“They are both Bái yōulíng” His mate replied. I translated his Mandarin to mean Gweilo a common Cantonese slang term for foreigners meaning ‘white ghost’ or foreigner.

“Oh ow do hey know Iy don no ya from a barh of soop” She explained.
“You explain, mistake” the captain asked.
“Mo man tai” I replied in Cantonese,“No problem”, temporarily unable to remember the equivalent in Mandarin.

“Cross border, yes” the captain added keen to clear the problem from the crowded hall.
“Cross border, yes”? I replied to the captain.
He smiled and nodded.
I turned to the redhead and explained it was only her hair the businessmen were interested in they just wanted to feel your red hair, in China it is rare and an unusual, red is a lucky colour, western hair to the Chinese feels like silk compared to their much thicker, courser black horse hair, long red hair like yours is going to attract a lot of unwanted interest, The Chinese businessmen meant no offense, it was only curiosity, they obviously don't speak English other wise they would have asked your permission first. Now if you intend to spend time in China you will either need to get a hat, a hair cut or hide it under a scarf or you will just have to get use to the Chinese wanting to touch it.

“I wonder if he is asking her for her address” one guard said behind me.
“Ask her to bed” someone answered.
“Shut up and form up” replied the captain.

“Soow whet happens noow” she asked suddenly noticing the PRC guards were now moving to form a loose square about us.

“The captain has offered to escort us through immigration”, I replied.
“Whot den? Nn just oo the fuck are yoo really” she asked, suddenly becoming suspicious.

“After? you are free to visit China if you still want and me? I'm no one, the captain doesn't want an international incident in his crowded hall and has offered to let us through customs” I explained.

“How com yoo cn orda the Chineeze to do stoof, I don't know oo ya really ar”? she said.
“Look, I cross this border four or more times a week and have done so for quite a while, the guards  all know me and that's all, now please they would like to give you an escort through the border” I explained.
I was relieved to see her join us as the group moved off in a sort of very loose square formation as we walked the two hundred meters to the crowded immigration counter where people were cleared to allow us to present our passports. Mine was instantly returned without being opened, I turned and watched as she passed hers over, the guard opened it, found the large red visitors stamp and stamped his over the top before tossing it back without showing further interest.
The escort group moved on to the main departure hall where the captain finally halted, turned and smiled, I opened my briefcase and handed him a carton of cigarettes, he shook my hand then hers with a "Che Che" as the group broke up and returned to their patrolling.

We walked down the broad marble staircase toward the exit then she stopped.
”Eer ei notced ee didn't even bova a look et yor passport, oo are you exactly, som sorta spy”? She asked.
“No” I smiled,”I'm not some sort of spy I'm exactly what it say’s on my card, I’m just a quarry manager working in China” I replied, walking toward the large doors that lead out onto the impossibly crowded streets of China.
Chinese side of the border.
She had stopped to read my business card once more before catching up with me just as the large doors slid open allowing the noise, sights and the dust of China to hit her full in the face all at the same time, she stopped in the crowded doorway.
 
I waited a few moments then taking her by the hand said,”Welcome to China, this way I’ll buy you a hat and a scarf, and put you on the train to Guangzhou”.



Lost in Translation.


Carnorvon Road

 

I lived in Hong Kong & China for three and a half years to be exact.
Looking back I seem to have accumulated far more than three years worth of memories.
I managed two Quarries in China, One on Oi Ling Island to the south of HK the other just across the Lo Wu border north of the town of Shenzhen and Lyntong at Wo Shek Koo (Black Stone Quarry) where I had a small house on site.
Well, no that really makes it sound far grander than it was, it was closer to a two bedroom prefab portable mining accommodation type unit.
Apart from having just the basics, it was roomy and quite comfortable.
Made in Australia a metal plate proudly informed all,  "This structure has been certified and treated against attacks by white ants, termites and wood rot".

One night I woke to a rather loud noise from somewhere within the building. Thinking I might not be alone I crept about in the dark, completely naked as I investigated the source, with my large Betty Boop alarm clock at the ready to defend myself.
I eventually came upon the ceramic wash basin laying on the bathroom floor surrounded by various toiletry items.
Two large holes in the wall along with the two taps were evidence of where the basin had been previously attached.
Termites had eaten away the wooden wall studs, the supporting bolts simply fell out of what remained.
It was instantly obvious what had caused the problem.

The attached metal fumigation certification plate had been written in English and not Chinese.
The wash basin was joined on the floor by the wall mirror a day or so later.
I discovered by pressing an ear against the wall the termite work team could be heard gnawing away within.
The point of a Biro pressed against the wooden ply wall was all that was needed to test the wall structure, and could easily break through into one of the many tunnels where I simply inserted insect spray.
The surviving termites simply regrouped and set off in another direction, “we are Borg”.

Breakfast:
For the first six months of my contract I lived in the company owned Stanford hotel in Mongkok, Kowloon, just a short walk to the Lady Street Market, and all the tourist shops one could ever wish for,
I quickly became friendly with the staff of the hotel.
Occasionally I would be joined at breakfast by some of my fellow ex pat managers and often became embarrassed by the way they ordered the hotel staff about over trivia or something they felt displeased with, obviously unable to make a distinction between staff and slaves.
I soon made it a point not to inform my fellow expats of my Hong Kong movements unless absolutely necessary.

Early one morning as I was finishing breakfast an American clergyman entered the dining room, he stopped at the notice board to read what was on offer, pulled out a small rather pathetic looking purse and after his finger rifled about inside checking the contents held enough to afford breakfast sat at one of the tables.
Amused by his obvious display of impoverishment I wrote on a hotel note pad, “No blessing required” then as I left I arranged with William the dining room manager to put the cost of his breakfast on my bill, and should he ask to present the clergyman with my note.

Returning to the hotel later that evening I was handed the note on which the clergyman had written, ”No blessing intended, just a thank you”.

Boats:
As part of my role as manager of the island,s quarry I was also given two, 10m twin V8 powered cabin cruisers each with a captain and first mate to enable me to travel anytime to the island quarry on Oi Ling Ding about 30km south of Hong Kong.
After watching other company boats waiting to pick up their passengers from the Hong Kong public wharf all flying their country or company flags from the stern staff I presented both my captains with the green and yellow boxing kangaroo.
Boxing Kangaroo
A short time later we were bobbing about in Hong Kong Harbor while waiting for the public dock to clear when one of my captains asked why we were flying a flag with a fighting rat, when my Chinese birth sign was the ox.

Obviously something had become lost in the translation.

Hercules Flight PK-PLV from Hong Kong.


19940923-0-P-1

In 1996 Hong Kong was approaching the time for handing back owner ship from Britain back to China.
China had lent the British Hong Kong in 1842 after the opium war, before the hand over could go ahead there was a small problem of what to do with the Vietnamese boat people who had escaped from communist Vietnam and were interned in Hong Kong and had been there for some time.These Vietnamese refugees lived in very overcrowded holding camps while their history and identities were being checked, some of the boat people had been processed and sent onto other countries.

The Governor Chris Patten, decided those remaining in the months leading up to the handover would be returned to Hanoi.

There was much local protesting, but the Hong Kong Government remained firm with their decision.
A private Hercules transport aircraft from Pelita Air Services had been hired to begin the task of returning the boat people to Hanoi.
Each flight contained a number of Hong Kong officials to assist with the process of the handover.
At the end of the month long operation these officials were flown back to Hong Kong’s Kai Tak airport.
The transport aircraft was fueled with 45,000lbs of fuel, the second (B crew) crew waiting in Hong Kong took charge of the transport and with both A & B flight crews on board for the return flight to its base in Thailand with a total of 12 on board.

The aircraft ready for flight joined the usual line of Jumbos to wait its turn for take off fron KaiTak airport.
After almost 18 minutes it was given clearance to line up and with a roar as each of the 4 engines spooled up to 5000lb torque the brakes were released and it began to move down the runway.

A call to the control tower from the next British Jumbo in line waiting for permission to use the active runway asked the controllers a minute or so later, if they would like them to hold position?
The tower queried the reason for the requested delay?

The waiting BA Jumbo replied politely, to allow the rescue vehicles to cross the runway, as the departing Hercules aircraft had just taken off, banked to the right and a wing briefly touched the grass verge the aircraft was now disappearing rapidly below the water in Hong Hong Harbor.

Of the 12 persons on board only 6 survived, the accident investigation revealed the propeller on no4 engine (extreme right) went to Beta mode shortly after the wheels left the runway (Ground Mode going to fine pitch and increasing the drag) possible cause, a broken throttle cable. 

China & Hong Kong 1993 to 1996



Hong Kong. Kai Tak Airport.1993

I was sitting in at a meeting on the 28th floor of a building in Hong Kong overlooking Hong Kong Harbour.


Outside it was a morning of drenching heavy rain as Hong Kong was buffeted by an approaching Typhoon, the rain lashed the streets pushed along by the strong and gusty winds.

Directly opposite the building across Hong Kong Harbor was Kai Tak airport.
Through the wind and driving rain I could see Jumbo jets taking off in the uncomfortable conditions.

A China Air jumbo appeared through the rain moving rapidly along the runway in a cloud of water spray on the final part of its landing run, the aircraft partly submerged by huge spray being push along in front by the power of its reversing engines. 
I watched as it swerved a little left then right as it raced along the runway.
Being an aviator it looked unusual and instantly grabbed my attention, I watched the impressive amount of spray being lifted and pushed forward as the pilot made an obvious futile attempt to stop the jet before arriving at the rapidly approaching end of the runway.

Even from across Hong Kong Harbor, through the thick glass of the building the thunderous roar of its four protesting engines could easily be heard.

The jet simply continued on at speed as it ran off the end of the runway nose down and slid into the bay with a splash then continued to float slowly away from the rocky end of the runway.

The interior lights of the cabin were on and its passengers could be seen looking out of the windows at the surrounding water, by now I thought they must know all was not well.


China Air Jumbo.

Just a little way into Hong Kong harbor was a small tug, towing two large empty barges.
It easily slipped the tow ropes and set the barges adrift in the busy water way.

The tiny tug turned and maneuvered itself in front of the huge drifting jet, approaching it slowly, nose to nose. A gentle touch easily halting the monsters progress from shore.

Slowly the tiny tug moved the enormous airliner back toward the end of the airports runway, the bottom of the towering tail touched the rocky breakwater as the tug maneuvered the jet into a position where one wingtip passed over the bank, then the jet stopped moving.

At the same time the nose cone suddenly crumpled near the front of the cock pit, giving the appearance the jet had suddenly broken into a huge smile.

Stunned passengers began appearing stumbling along the top of the wing buffeted by the strong wind and driving rain as they made their way along the wing then eventually slid down over the back of the wing and onto the rain sodden safety of mud and sand.